Improvement in shirt-scales



Shirt-Scale.

No. 202,479. Patented April 16, I878.

llHlllI-lllllllllllll ATTORNEYS.

N. PETERS. FNOTO-LITHQGRA'PHER. wASmN UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

NATHAN N. SPBEOHER AND'ISAAC B. KELLER, OF READING, PENNSYLYANIA.

.IMPROVEMENT IN SHIRT-SCALES.

Specification forming part of Letters Patent No. 202,479, dated April16, 1878; application filed January 26, 1878.

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that we, NATHAN N. SPREGHER. and ISAAC B. KELLER, ofReading, in the county of Berks and State of Pennsylvania, have inventednew and Improved Shirt-Scales, of which the following is aspecification:

Figures 1, 2, 3, and 4 represent the several plates composing the scale.Fig. 5 represents the plates in the position in which they are used,showing their relation to each other. Fig. 6 represents, in dottedlines, the application of the plates to the cutting of shirts. Fig. 7represents the relation of the scales to circles having the diameter ofthe neck.

Similar letters of reference indicate corresponding parts.

The object of our invention is to provide a convenient and reliable rulefor uniformly graduating slopes required between different diameters ofneck-measurement in all sizes and proportions.

In the drawing, A is a plate or gage, having a rectangular end, a, acurved edge, b c, and an edge, d 0, formed on a reversed curve. Thecurved edge b c is graduated from the point b at the rectangular end.The different series are indicated by the scale on the concave curve I)c. Fig. 7 represents the accuracy of this plate and its relation to thedifferent diameters. The dotted line, parallel with the horizontal line,marked with dilferent seriesof the diameter, and the perpendicular line,represent the different edges of the folded material. This gage isplaced with the edge b c at and parallel to the folded edge of thematerial from which the shirt is to be made, and,placing the graduationwhose number corresponds with the number representing theneck-measurement at the upper edge of the material, a line drawn alongthe edge b a will indicate the cut that should be made for the actualsize of the neck.

To make the neck sufficiently loose for comfort, one inch or more shouldbe allowed on the circumferential measure of the neck. This necessitatesmoving the gage downward so as to bring another and larger graduationopposite the upper edges of the material, and should it be desirable tochange the proportion of the neck so as to make it proportionally loweror higher in front, the curved line for the neck-opening may be drawndiagonally between two parallel curved lines formed as before described.However, in using this plate in connection with a single-yoke pattern,(such as is commonly used without a yoke-band,) only one graduationshould be taken-i. 6.,13118 one indicatingthe size required.

The neck-openin g havingbeen marked out, the line for the yoke andsleeves is made in the usual way, and to determine the length and markout the form of the yoke, the plate B is employed. This plate has astraight side, f g, graduated into inches and fractions of inches, and aside formed of two curves, h i and i j. The curve h '5 is theneck-portion of the yoke, and the curve '6 j the shoulder-portion. Thisplate is placed with the edge l at and parallel to the folded edge ofthe material in cutting open-front shirts, and the line indi cated by Itis placed parallel to the folded edge in cutting open-back shirts.

A mark, k, is made on the face three-fourths inch from the end I, forthe overlapping portion of the shirt, and the curved edge 4. j isgraduated for a short distance at the end j, the graduationscorresponding with graduations formed on a pattern for theshoulder-piece, to be presently described.

The yoke is marked out and its length ascertained by placing the curvededge t j, on the yoke-line of the shirt with the angle '6 at the linedrawn at the curved edge of the plate A. The end of the yoke line fallsopposite the graduation on the plate B, which represents the length ofthe yoke.

The form and length of the shoulder-piece are obtained by using theplate 0. This plate has a straight edge, ma, an end, m p, cut offdiagonally, and a curved edge, 10 g, which is graduated for a part ofits length in the same manner as the curved edge of the plateB.

The shoulder-piece is out off at the graduation on the plate 0 whichcorresponds with the graduation on the plate B at which the yoke is cut.

The neck-band is out by the pattern or plate D, which is graduated oneach edge into half, quarter, and eighth inches, and is slightly curvedand tapered near one of its ends. This plate is placed on the doubleedge of the material from which the band is to be cut,

the diagonal edge, or edge of the tapered end, being placed at thefolded edge of the goods for cutting neck-bands of open-back shirts.

For cutting bands for open-front shirts, We reverse the plate and cutthe bands from a point indicating the size required. The material is cutafter the plate or pattern to the graduation representing the size ofneck-band required. The necessary allowance for overlapping is made inthe pattern or plate.

For boys sizes, the dotted lines marked on plates B and 0 indicate thesize of the patterns required for boys, and are used in the same manner,as described.

Having thus described our invention, We claim as new and desire tosecure by Letters Patent-- 1. In shirt-scales, the plate B, having themark k, and a side with the curves h 3 and NATHAN N. SPREGHER. ISAAC B.KELLER.

Witnesses:

MATHIAS MENGEL, J OHN G. MOGOWAN.

